Trek from Lake O'Higgins in Chile to Lake Desierto in Argentina

Through the back door to Argentina

Starting point

The trek starts either at Camping Estancia Santa Teresita in Candelario Mancilla or at Embarcadero Sofanor Mancilla. Depending on whether you come from the south or the north.
 

Description of the hike

The day before the trek, we had reserved seats in the smaller of the two boats that ply Lago O'Higgins. We spent the night at Villa O'Higgins and took a minibus to the pier in Puerto Bahamondes. The icing on the cake was going to be reaching the O'Higgins Glacier, but... The weather didn't like it, so after about an hour and a half of sailing we got into two meter waves and after two attempts to cross it we were forced to give up the glacier and land in a calm bay and wait for milder weather.

This put us in a spot with a fantastic view of Lake O'Higgins as well as swimming opportunities. Plus we saw a herd of wild cows. But back to the trek. After about five hours, we re-embarked and after a noticeably calmer water, we crossed the lake to the pier at Embardero Sofanor Mancilla. From there we walked to the campsite about 300 metres away.

The next day, before 8 o'clock, we dropped off our large packs at the campsite and split into two groups, a full-footed group and a semi-motorized group. The backpacks traveled in a third group, the motorized-horse group. The weather was not in our favor. It wasn't blowing, but it was raining steadily. The first stop after a few hundred meters was the Chilean customs. After the necessary paperwork, we continued up the rocky road to the saddle.

The whole Chilean side is passable both perpendicularly and on the ground. After four hours or one hour depending on the group, we all met at the saddle on the border between Chile and Argentina. The weather finally smiled on us again, but the journey onwards was only by pedestrian bus, even for cyclists.

The last 6-8 kilometers (even local sources differ) took us 3 hours. The terrain often changed from comfortable forest path to lengthy muddy passages, sometimes to rocky sections and many times we climbed over fallen wet logs. Otherwise it was a walk without any physically demanding sections. Eventually we dropped down to Lago Desierto to the Argentine customs, went through the necessary paperwork and waited for our packs. At 5:30, the shuttle arrived, a catamaran that took us to the Muelle de embarque, Lago del Desierto. There, the minibus we had ordered was waiting to take us to our final destination, El Chaltén.
 

Difficulty

The whole trek with transport from and to civilization is physically, logistically and financially demanding. Weather is a critical factor, either directly on the trek route or during transport to and from the starting point or destination. Most of the trek is on a rocky mountain road for light off-road vehicles, while a smaller part is on a forest trail with muddy sections, sloping and steeper passages. Here it also crosses mountain streams several times.
 

Water availability

On the route you can refill water at customs and from busy mountain streams and rivers. We got water at Villa O'Higgins and at Camping Estancia Santa Teresita. Together we carried 3.5 litres for two people.
 

Sleeping options

In Candelario Mancilla, you can stay at Camping Estancia Santa Teresita in a tent, barn or wooden house. It is also possible to sleep rough along the trek route, although this may be officially forbidden. Camping Estancia Santa Teresita is in fact a simple farmhouse and the families who live there make a living by serving tourists. Forget about any comforts in advance. There's a dry toilet and, if they get a fire going in time, a fairly hot shower.

It is possible to order a hot meal, but only in advance. It is also possible to order backpack transport via saddle on horseback. The price for the horse is 40,000 CLP, the horse can carry three pieces and the price for each piece is 10,000 CLP. In addition, it is possible to arrange for transport to the saddle. The price is 10 000 CLP per person. Prices should be taken with a grain of salt as I have not seen any official price list.
 

Mountain peaks

There are no peaks on the trek route. The highest point is a saddle on the border between Chile and Argentina. There are good views of Lago O'Higgins and Lago Desierto in the initial and final stages of the trek.
 

Danger

Although the trek route is at a low altitude, the climate is mountainous. Therefore, the standard dangers of staying and moving in mountainous terrain and moving in difficult forest terrain apply.
 

Food

Although it is possible to order food at the campsite, the following applies: own food bought in advance!!! Breakfast and dinner were very good, but the portions were too small before the long trek.