Three-day hike to Theth in the Albanian Alps test

Crossing the mountains range Prokletije from Lepushë to Theth in Albania

Starting point

The village of Lepushë in northern Albania. It is located on the road leading to Montenegro.
 

Description of the hike

1. day

The main focus of the first day was to move to the village of Lepushë. In Skadar we finally agreed with a taxi driver and for 90 Euro he took us to the village. It's a really crazy journey. There is a relatively new road. However, it's all curves and big elevation changes, so the car got quite a workout. There's a pub just off the road, so we had a little refreshment.
 

We decided that on this day we would go to the last possibility to finish the water. Therefore, we left the village on a wide road and started climbing up the mountains through the forest. It's a simple path, nothing to worry about. After leaving the forest, the landscape changed and we found ourselves on the mountain plains. At the same time, there is a stream flowing here, so I found a place for tents a short distance from the stream. In the evening the local shepherds came to us and brought us local delicious cheese. With the help of German, we even had a chat. The night was uneventful.
 

2. day

In the morning we replenished our fluids and headed for the mountains. The first part of the way leads through the mountain meadows past shepherds' huts. It's a beautiful stretch of road. But soon there was a change. Gradually we started to get closer to the mountain wall and it was clear that we were in for a tough climb. Although the markings were newly made and clearly visible, the trail gradually ended and from this point on we were basically walking in open terrain, with only the occasional hint of a trail. In the now purely rocky terrain we climbed up to the first saddle.

A view of a huge mountain basin opened up before us, surrounded on all sides by mountains. We descended gently from the saddles and traversed around the entire cauldron. Again, no sign of the trail. Finally, we climbed steeply up another saddle.

Here we had views of the highest mountain in the mountain range - Maja e Jezercës. From the saddle, a very steep descent into another mountain valley followed. A bit of the descent also leads through a snow field that does not melt even in summer. Fortunately, there is a spring in the mountain valley and we pitched our tents a short distance from it and spent the second night there.
 

3. day

In the morning we refilled water again and set off for the village of Theth. At first the trail still goes between the rocks, but after about 2 kilometers we reached a saddle from where you can see the valley of Theth village. From the saddle, the trail descends in many serpentines.

Here we also started to meet the first hikers. We descended the trail into the forest and continued on to the village. Already in the valley there is a nice refreshment area where we had a few well-deserved beers. We then reached the village of Theth. At the local info centre we arranged both an overnight stay in the garden and a lift back to Skadar the next day. And in the evening we celebrated the successful crossing with a good dinner and a beer.
 

Difficulty

It is a rather demanding trek in the beautiful nature of the Albanian Alps. The main problem of the route is the lack of a trail. The route is newly marked. And quite well. But it runs basically in open terrain. So you have to concentrate on every step. And the terrain is more or less always rocky.

Another problem is the lack of water on the trail. It's necessary to have enough of your own water supply. Physically, the route is also challenging. There is no ridge in these mountains. You just go up and down. And the elevations are decent. So a good physical condition is definitely useful. I would recommend the route to experienced mountain climbers.
 

Water availability

Water is a bit of a problem in these mountains. Fortunately, there is enough water above the village of Lepushë. But further up in the mountains, there's no chance. The next spring is up to 2 kilometres from the Qafa e Pejes saddle, which is already above the village of Theth. It is therefore necessary to have at least 2 litres of water with you, preferably more. It is very warm in the mountains.
 

Sleeping options

We spent two nights in the mountains. The first one above the village of Lepushë on the edge of a meadow. The second in a meadow about 2 km from the Qufa e Pejes saddle. In both cases there was a little bit of water. The last night we spent in the garden of the locals, who also hosted us. This night we arranged for an info centre in Theth (the house belonged to the family of the guy who works in the info).
 

Mountain peaks

We didn't go over any peaks on the route. We climbed up two mountain saddles. The views are great anyway. And that's to Montenegro and to the Prokletije mountain itself.
 

Danger

The trek is quite challenging. There is a lack of trails and so you have to be careful where you step every time. Often you walk through a debris field that is crumbling. The descent from the second saddle into the valley is quite steep and you need to hold on to rocks. The signage is good, so orientation is not such a problem. Be sure to watch out for snakes. They are here and waiting:-)
 

Food

We carried all the food on our backs. We cooked on our stoves. The pubs are at the end of the trek in Theth.
 

Attractions

In Albania, we had a problem getting cartridges for the cookers. We couldn't find any shops in Tirana. So we bought a complete cooker with cartridge at a local home improvement store. The cooker is connected to a plastic base into which the cartridge is inserted and by screwing the plastic lid the cartridge is pierced.