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Ferrata Marino Bianchi and Ivano Dibona in the Monte Cristallo massif

Mountain range, region / State

Dolomites in Alps / Italy

Season

Summer

11. 08. 2011

Difficulty

D

Elevation

↑ 573 m

↓ 1818 m

Length

9.7 km

12 hours

Altitude

max. 3154 m n.m.

min. 1684 m n.m.

Elevation profile of the route

Meters climbed: 573 m
Dismal metres: 1818 m

Climbing two ferrata in one day in the Dolomites

Starting point

Parking at the bottom station of the cable car at the Rist hut. Rie Gere. A little below the Passo Tre Croci road saddle. The ferrata itself is boarded at the Rifugio G.Lorenci hut at the end of the cable car from the valley.
 

Description of the hike

We arrived at the parking lot at the bottom station of the cable car at around seven o'clock in the morning. After carefully packing our things we immediately started to queue for the cable car. (photo) We paid 17,5 Euro per person and we were ready to go. The first part of the trip was in a modern cabin. At the Son Forcia hut, however, we switched to almost historic looking cabins. Finally, we got off safely at the Refugio G. Lorenci hut. Already here we had a wonderful view not only of the Dolomites, but also of the Austrian Alps, including the Gross Glockner. (photo)

From the hut, we set off for the first part of our journey - the Marino Bianchi ferrata, which led to the summit of Cristallo di Mezzo 3,150 m above sea level. Just behind the hut, the sheltered path began. We also started gaining altitude right away. The belay is really in excellent condition. The path led over rocks and at the beginning it is rather easier terrain. Gradually, however, we started to gain height. The first ladder appeared on the way. In places the climbing was quite airy. (photo) There were also passages where it was safe to rest. The end of the climb was steep on the rock. After crossing a rock break, there was only a short summit ridge and after a while we were standing on the top of the Cristallo di Mezzo 3,150 m above sea level. (photo) After a short rest we headed back. The road follows the same route as the ascent. Although we sometimes had to avoid climbers who were in the opposite direction, there was always plenty of space. So we descended to the Rifugo G. Lorenci hut without any problems.

Here we had a good rest and then we set off for the second part of our journey - the Ivano Dibona ferrata. Right at the beginning is probably the most attractive place of the whole ferrata. From the hut we first climbed a short distance on the rock and then a raised footbridge appeared in front of us. (photo) After crossing the footbridge we immediately followed climbing the ladder. Really beautiful. From the ladder, we continued on along the belayed path that led along the ridge. At the saddle we made a small detour and climbed along the edge of the ridge to the summit of the Cristallino d'Ampezzo 3,008 m above sea level. We walked along the ridge for a while, but after a while we started descending steeply into the saddle. The ladders helped us to do this.

We took a short break in the saddle, which was made more interesting by the arrival of a rescue helicopter for a confused German tourist. He was walking the ferrata from the other side and without any equipment on the ferrata. At these points he found that he could not continue without equipment, so he called for help. In this passage one walked on a classic mountain path without belay (photo) past the remains of WW1 fortifications. After a while, however, we started to belay again as the path led along footbridges and rock benches. Slowly we started to descend until we reached a small saddle. Here we left the ferrata Ivano Dibona and started descending into the valley. The path was still safe, but it was not so difficult. At the end of the ferrata we had a pleasant surprise in the form of a small stream. So we took up water supplies there. The way onwards was along the classic mountain path. After a while we joined a wide path which led us to the cable cars. Then we descended steeply under the cable car back to the car park. Tired but happy, we could leave for more mountain challenges.

 

Difficulty

Basically, it is a merging of two ferrata into one crossing. Both ferrata are well protected, there are no ladders or footbridges. They are moderately demanding, it is good to have some experience already. Sometimes they are quite airy. But it was the total length that gave us the most trouble, we spent 12 hours in the rocks.
 

Water availability

Liquids can be replenished at the Rifugio G. Lorenzi. Then we came across water only when descending from the ferrata to the saddle.
 

Mountain peaks

On the ferrata we climbed the peaks of Cristallo di Mezzo 3 150 m above sea level and Cristallino d Ampezzo 3 008 m above sea level. The views are absolutely fantastic. You can see the giants of the Dolomites - Marmolada, Sorapis, Monte Pelmo, the Tofan group. In the north, the wall of the Austrian Alps with Gross Glockner is again beautifully visible.
 

Danger

The two ferratas - Marino Bianchi and Ivano Dibona are both well secured. There is no danger if you follow the safety rules of the ferratas. Of course, it is necessary to be careful in case of a storm, as there is a minimum of places where it is safe to spend the night.

Equipment

For crossing the ferratas it is necessary to have complete equipment for safe routes - a ferrata set with a brake and a helmet. Gloves (cycling gloves) are also good to protect against possible abrasion from the steel rope.
 

Food

Refreshments are available at the Rifugio G. Lorenci hut at the top station of the cable car in the saddle between the two ferrata.
 

Attractions

We used the cable cars to get to the Rifugio G. Lorenci hut, which cost us 17.5 Euros. During the ferrata, like in many other places in the Dolomites, we passed the remains of WWI fortifications, as the front line stretched here as well.
 

Posted by: 23. 03. 2017
Author:
Gejza
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