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Ferrata Giovanni Lipella on Tofano di Rozes in the Dolomites

Mountain range, region / State

Dolomites in Alps / Italy

Season

Summer

28. 08. 2009

Difficulty

D

Elevation

↑ 2078 m

↓ 2078 m

Length

10.7 km

9 hours

Altitude

max. 3225 m n.m.

min. 2037 m n.m.

Elevation profile of the route

Meters climbed: 2078 m
Dismal metres: 2078 m

Giovanni Lipella Long Ferrata in the Italian Dolomites

Starting point

Parking at the Rifugio A. Dibona hut. It is located at the end of the road that turns off the main road connecting Cortina d'Ampezzo and Passo Falzarego. The turn-off is about 8 km after Cortina d'Ampezzo.
 

Description of the hike

We started our ascent of the Tofana di Rozes 3,225 m above sea level early in the morning at the parking lot of the Rifugio A Dibona hut. From the hut we set off along the marked path that led us below the perpendicular walls of Mount Tofana di Rozes. Following the trail, we began to walk around these walls towards the west. After about 1.5 km we arrived at the start of the sheltered path.

The very beginning is very attractive. After a set of ladders we climbed up to the beginning of the tunnel from WW1. (photo) Here it is absolutely necessary to have a flashlight or headlamp, because it is pitch black. We started to climb up the gallery gradually. Sometimes there are short turns, but otherwise it goes straight on. In this way we covered about 800 metres. After leaving the gallery we found ourselves in the world of rocks. A glance down showed us that we had already climbed some. We continued on the ferrata, which gradually climbed up the rock benches. Very often the path was cut into the rock and we had to duck a lot to get through. (photo)

The path led upwards along the rock ledges until we reached the Tre Dita junction. Here it is possible to leave the ferrata and continue along the normal path. Part of our group took advantage of this and the rest of the group climbed to the top on the normal path. We continued along the ferrata, which from the turnoff leads along the rock ledge. (photo) Here we could already feel the fatigue, which was increased by the height we were at. Finally we reached the end of the belayed path. Further on, the normal path leads us to the top of the Tofana di Rozes 3,225 m above sea level. Here we also met the companions who had turned off the ferrata onto the normal path. (photo)

From the top we descended together along the trail to the hut. Rifugio Giussani. Here we had a well-deserved beer. From the hut, we started descending down a wide path in serpentine valley. (photo) We descended back to the parking lot of the Rifugio A. Dibona hut without any problems.
 

 

Difficulty

Very demanding ferrata mainly because of its length. It is one of the longest ferrata in the Dolomites. There are no extremely difficult passages on the route. The steep ascent alternates with the progress on rock benches. The belaying is very good. It is possible to leave the ferrata about halfway and switch to the normal route.
 

Water availability

We had all the liquids with us, as you don't come across water during the ferrata ascent (we had 1.5 litres of water per person). It is possible to refill fluids at the Rifugio Giussani hut during the descent.
 

Sleeping options

Ferrata can be done in one day. Overnight stays are possible at the huts on the route - Rifugio Camillo Giussani and Rifugio Angelo Dibona.
 

Mountain peaks

From the top of the Tofana di Rozes 3,225 m above sea level, you have a magnificent view of all the important peaks of the Dolomites - Marmolada, Piz Boe, Sorapis, Monte Pelmo, Civeta and many others.
 

Danger

This ferrata is very long. Therefore, it is necessary to know the weather forecast so that you are not surprised by a storm. It really takes several hours to get to the top. The belay is in very good condition. If you follow the basic safety rules on the ferrata, there is no risk. There are many exposed sections on this level of ferratas (D) and very good physical condition is required.

Equipment

To climb the Tofana di Rozes you need a complete set of equipment for safe routes - ferrata set with brake, helmet. A torch is also necessary as part of the ascent is led in a tunnel.
 

Food

Meals are available during the descent at the Rifugio Giussani hut. Alternatively, at the beginning or end of the journey at the Rifugio Angelo Dibona hut. We only had our own cold food. We had a beer at the huts.
 

Attractions

It is necessary to take a flashlight for this ferrata. The climb itself starts in a tunnel from World War I, which is about 800 meters long. The ferrata is very long and challenging. It is possible to leave it about halfway up at a place called Tre Dita and continue along the normal path.
 

Posted by: 26. 03. 2017
Author:
Gejza
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